2nd Installment: Dennis and Carol’s Big Adventures

Geez, let me check the calendar again… yup I’m a geezer. Day 3 of our first stop in Paris and I am befuddled and confused (jetlagged ‘r us). There are so many technical situations that have to be juggled and solved on the spot to keep this train a’rollin’.

There’s train strikes that require alternate methods to get to the airport, constant communication with the 9 Airbnb hosts that I’ve lined up, credit card issues to solve, 14 Train schedules to stay updated on with 3 different systems, esim cards that suddenly quit which are the life blood of any 21st century itinerary, directions to every single place we’re going to including markets, tram stops, restaurants, boulangeries, scheduled events, etc. Then translating in multiple languages, checking the size and weight of our carry-ons so we dont get dinged $100! Thank goodness I have Carol to keep me straightened out. ‘HEY doofus, the toilet won’t flush and my shoe went through the floor again’! Maybe a cruise wasn’t such a bad idea?

Okay, so it wasn’t all stress and mayhem. We did manage to slip in a few interesting activities like a 1920s style speakeasy tour. What? Yup, speakeasys are a real thing around the world and there’s a bunch in Paris (even one in Boise). We lined up the tour through Airbnb Activities where they offer a curated list of local guides and courses from flying a plane, foodie tours and cooking classes, historical tours, and in our case our guide Felix who leads small groups to underground bars in an array of off-the-grid locations.

Felix is from Kenya and arrived in Paris to study at the Sorbonne and went on to get his Masters in Tourism. He is exceptionally well-equipped to lead these tours and has been for the past 5 years. He’s somewhat obligated to join in the festivities with each group and knows his way around a whiskey sour et al. Depending on the group size and their proclivity to consuming alcoholic beverages he will go to 2 or 3 different stops. We were only 3 plus himself so 3 stops were in order.

Besides Carol and myself we were joined by the lovely Amanda from Boise. Normally when I think of Boise I picture missing teeth and neck tattoos, but Amanda was a seasoned solo traveler/photographer who had just come back from a safari in Brazil. Well howdy-do miss Amanda, we’re from the Kootenays and we have 4 stop signs. Needless to say her revelations were more engaging than ours. Plus, Felix regaled us with life back home in Africa and all the countries that he had visited. No wait, it’s 5 stop signs.

Our first stop was on a side street and it was only accessible by standing in a discreet alcove where you had to enter a 5 digit code on a rotary phone and wait to be buzzed in the door. Cool. It was set in late roaring 20s style with comfortable couches and unique tables and lighting with the bar along one wall. It was compact and only had seating for 40 which included a darkened back room that sat 8, similarly decorated with subdued lighting and mid-century jazz playing throughout. This was set aside for us for as long as we wanted. Cool. The owner/bartender was a seasoned mixologist and there were an eclectic choice of cocktails. I chose a spectacular gin concoction called a Dizzy Gillespie. With exchange it was a mere $26 (that’s 260 bottle returns). Carol being Carol chose a more modest beverage, a glass of red wine. (when in Rome pretend it’s Castlegar). It was a mere $18. (We are going to have to drink our faces off back home to cash in enough empties to pay for this night).

Our second stop was just around the corner and was accessed by walking through the kitchen of a Peruvian restaurant and up some stairs to another unique setting. This was an old-time Mexican vibe and all drinks were mezcal or tequila based. What?! No red wine for Carol on this stop, just a simple straight up reposado from a maker that I was unacquainted with (I know, I was surprised too) in a cut low-slung shot glass. I, on the other hand went with another unique tequila-based mix called an Orpheus. While smooth and delicious I fully expected that tomorrow I might have an issue with my own orpheus during my morning routine. We lounged and I dazzled everyone with my scintillating wit and then it was time to move on to our final venue, again just a few hundred meters down the road.

This last one was in the back of a posh restaurant hidden behind a revolving bookcase-style liquor cabinet. Then up a marble winding staircase to a discreetly lit plush lounge with Art Nouveau trappings. Cool. Reaching a dizzying point in the evening we opted for some gourmet appetizers. The requisite charcuterie board with multiple cheeses, vegetables, and meats along with an outstanding pâté and some croquettes. Our bottle-return budget having been extinguished after the first stop we favored a more sensible choice of only red wine. Felix had to leave so he could get in shape for the following day’s tour but our remaining trio reclined and gorged ourselves on delicacies àla emperor Nero at a fiddle contest.

I almost forgot that the previous day we ventured out for a self-guided (cheap) tour of the Paris opera house, Palais Garnier. In a city of opulent architecture this is one of the most outstanding marquee structures. Built from 1861 – 1875 and commissioned by Napoleon III. Of course such magnificence attracts crowds and yesterday was no exception.

This was influencer heaven on steroids. Young 20-somethings wearing tutus and posing around everycorner, budding preteen ballerinas performing for parents and grandparents in the marble-ensconsed setting with videos and photos being produced by the score. A heavy dose of Asian patrons mingling with all manner of Europeans, with a couple of Canadians to stir the pot. The theater itself was plush and extraordinary almost beyond belief. There’s a reason why iconic historical buildings are tourist magnets; because they should not be missed and I’m glad we made the time to take in the spectacle.

Well we are moving on to Rome tomorrow so I will say adieu from Paris. Good night my friends.